Discover the Haut-Var, the authentic Provence
The Haut-Var lies in the department’s hinterland, between the Argens Plain and the Verdon Gorges. Visitors come here for the hilltop villages, local farmers’ markets, and unspoiled natural beauty.
This region takes a little effort to discover. It has neither the crowds of Saint-Tropez nor the traffic jams along the coast. Drive for twenty minutes and the landscape changes: vineyards, limestone plateaus, wooded valleys, and cool streams.
The Beautiful Villages of the Haut Var
Five stops, each with its own unique character. All are within a twenty-kilometer radius.
Tourtour
It’s called the “village in the sky,” and the nickname is well-deserved: Tourtour is perched at 635 meters on Beau Soleil Hill. On a clear day, the view stretches to the Maures, Sainte-Baume, and Sainte-Victoire.
The village is listed among the most beautiful villages in France. The Place des Ormeaux forms its center, with its cafés and shaded terraces. Eight fountains fed by the Saint-Rosaire spring line the streets, and the 17th-century communal oil mill still runs on water power from November through February. Four kilometers away, a walk through meadows and pine forests leads to the Sainte-Marie de Florièyes Abbey, founded in 1136.
Cotignac
A complete change of scenery. Cotignac is nestled against an 80-meter-high, 400-meter-long tuff cliff, carved out by the former course of the Cassole River.
Cave dwellings are carved into the rock, some of which have been converted into lodging. A guided tour provides access to the interior of the converted caves, which are invisible from the village. At the summit, two watchtowers and an orientation table overlook the rooftops. Below, Cours Gambetta and its century-old plane trees are the hub of the market, the bistros, and all village life.
Villecroze
Just ten minutes from Tourtour, Villecroze offers the same charm as Cotignac, but on a more intimate scale. The village nestles beneath a tuff cliff dotted with caves.
These troglodytic caves were converted into fortified dwellings in the 16th century, featuring mullioned windows and carved staircases. They are open to visitors. Right next door, the municipal park is home to a 35-meter waterfall that cascades down the rock like a veil, set in a shaded garden. It’s a quick stop—an hour is enough—but it’s worth the detour on hot days.
Sillans-la-Cascade
Sillans-la-Cascade is worth a visit. Here, the Bresque River plunges more than 40 meters into a turquoise pool at the foot of pink travertine cliffs.
The lookout point is a 15- to 25-minute walk from the left-bank parking lot along an easy trail, though it’s not recommended for strollers. Swimming is prohibited beneath the waterfall due to falling rocks, but is permitted downstream on the Bresque River. The village itself—perched high up and peaceful—is worth a leisurely stroll once you’ve finished the hike.
Aups
Aups is the capital of the black truffle, which the Provençals call “rabasse.” The market is held every Thursday morning from mid-November to mid-March in the square in front of City Hall. It is the largest in the Var department.
The baskets are kept covered with a cloth to prevent the truffles from drying out, the scales are brought out, and transactions are conducted the old-fashioned way. A truffle museum rounds out the visit during the off-season.
The rest of the year, Aups is known for its Provençal market, its fountains, its old town, and its location: twenty minutes from Lake Sainte-Croix and half an hour from the gorges. It’s the natural supply hub of the plateau.
Your questions about the Haut-Var
You’ve sent us several questions about the Haut-Var; here are our answers to your most frequently asked questions.
What are the most beautiful villages in the Haut Var?
The Haut Var has two villages listed among the Most Beautiful Villages of France: Tourtour and Bargème. The first sits high on its hill above the whole area, the second stands guard at 1,097 meters (3,600 feet) over the ruins of its castle. Aups, Villecroze, Moissac-Bellevue and Régusse round out the list with their fountains, shaded squares and medieval heritage. These villages of the Provence Verte Verdon area stay well off the main roads, far from the crowds of Saint-Tropez. Each one deserves an hour or two. You walk, you stop at a terrace, you move on.
How do you visit the Haut Var?
The best route starts in Aups and fans out toward the neighboring villages. The tourist offices in Aups, Cotignac and Villecroze will hand you a map and the calendar of local events. You will also find hiking sheets and the marked trails of the area there. Plan on three days minimum for a proper stay. Book your guided tours ahead in summer, since groups fill up fast. And take the detour: the prettiest roads in the Haut Var are never the most direct.
What can you do in the Haut Var?
Hiking comes first, with trails through the hills, the valleys and along the streams. The Sillans waterfall is the one everyone comes for, followed by the falls in the park at Villecroze. On the food side, the black truffle of Aups makes the reputation of the local terroir from November through February. Provençal markets, wine estates and the terracotta workshops of Salernes fill out the rest. Village restaurants serve simple local cooking, done well.
Where are the Verdon Gorges?
The Verdon Gorges open up north of the Haut Var, on the border between the Var and the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. The river carved a canyon 25 kilometers (15 miles) long before reaching Sainte-Croix lake. From Aups, count about 30 kilometers (20 miles) to the first views over the water. Aiguines guards the entrance to the gorges on the Var side, and the Corniche Sublime strings together one overlook after another. Hiking trails drop all the way down to the river for anyone who wants to see the site from below.
Where are the best viewpoints in the Haut Var?
Bargème offers the widest panorama, at 1,097 meters (3,600 feet), over the Canjuers plateau and the foothills of the Alps. Tourtour earns its nickname of village in the sky: on a clear day the view runs all the way to Sainte-Victoire mountain. Moissac-Bellevue says it in its own name. Régusse looks out over the hills from its rocky outcrop. For Sainte-Croix lake, drive up to the Aiguines overlook late in the day. The light there at sunset is magnificent.
Which towns make up the Haut Var?
The heart of the area brings together Aups, Tourtour, Villecroze, Moissac-Bellevue, Régusse, Vérignon and Bargème. Cotignac, Salernes, Sillans-la-Cascade and Entrecasteaux, further south, are usually counted in as well. To the west, Saint-Julien-le-Montagnier and Saint-Martin-de-Pallières mark the edge of the Barjols country. All of them sit in the Var department, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region. Most have fewer than 3,000 residents.
How do you get to the Haut Var?
Driving is by far the easiest way. From the A8 freeway, take the Le Muy or Saint-Maximin exit depending on where you start, then follow the departmental roads toward Draguignan or Barjols. The nearest high-speed train station, Les Arcs-Draguignan, is about 40 kilometers (25 miles) from Aups. Nice and Marseille airports both serve the region, with car rental on site. Keep a paper map in the glove box, since cell coverage drops out in some of the valleys.
Where can you stay in the Haut Var?
You will find boutique hotels, bed and breakfasts, country rentals and campgrounds. Tourtour and Cotignac hold most of the upscale addresses, including a few character properties with pools. Vacation rentals are plentiful around Aups and Villecroze, often with views over the hills. Campgrounds cluster near Sainte-Croix lake and along the rivers. Book early for July and August, as availability goes fast from spring onward.
